Five.Ten Anasazi Lace Up
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Lined stretch resistant synthetic upper Easy slip-on design for ease of use Power toes gives superb edging Stealth C4 rubber provides superior grip. Please note, this page also covers the new Five.Ten Anasazi Verde.
Five.Ten Anasazi Lace Up Reviews
Reviewed by Kevin Maule (Beauly, Highlands) on 2005-12-11:
General comments: Anasazi's are very technical rock shoes and by that I mean painful.
Well perhaps I bought mine a half size too small by I can only have them on for an hour before my feet need resting.
However, having said that I have an incredible level of trust in these shoes.
The famed stealth rubber is very sticky and combined with the pronounced point of the toe means I have been able to smear with the tip of my big toe on the vertical indoor wall.
The sole and the tight rubber rand are a lot stiffer on these shoes than others I have owned. I've noticed this has allowed greater power transfer and leverage when using tiny edges.
There is quite a lot of rubber on these shoes, especially in the heel (great for heel hooking). One of the reasons this rubber is so sticky is that it is soft, meaning they can wear through fast and one friend did so in about 2 months of going to the indoor wall 2 or 3 times a week.
These shoes are fantastic for bouldering and on steep to overhanging routes but would be too uncomfortable for long multi pitch routes. I mostly use these at the indoor wall at the moment and have only used them on one route outdoors, it just so happens it was a personal best and my hardest route to date!
As with all rock shoes it all just about personal taste and comfort. Personally I can wait to get back onto rock even if they are pink!
Comment on this review...
Pros: unbelievable grip.
high degree of power transfer through stiffness.
great on tiny toe holds.
Cons: Uncomfortable breaking period.
Reviewed by David Cowan (Aberdeen) on 2006-01-03:
General comments: The most amazing rock shoe to ever grace feet!
These shoes are the most sensitive, best shaped technical shoe available. The stealth rubber is super sticky and fitted small, (performance fit!) the support is unsurpassed.Comment on this review...
Pros: Superb feedback, lets you know exactly what you're standing on. The rubber allows you to smear on glass!
Lined synthetic upper allows you to maintain the fit without them becoming baggy.
Oh and yes they are the animal welfare option!
Cons: The heel! Bit of dead air space in there, I can live with it!
They soften and wear wear quite quickly. Don't expect perfect edging till the day they die!
Reviewed by Esther Dyer (West Yorks) on 2006-02-07:
General comments: Climbing shoes are one of those things that are fairly difficult to find a perfect fit - and one of those things where a perfect fit is vital if they are to fulfil their requirements. The Five Ten Anasazi seems to address this, although perhaps at the expense of comfort.
I have found these shoes to provide a snug fit, particularly for narrow feet. The laces have stretch capacity to be pulled very tightly around the foot. This means, however, that they take a while to soften up and they never truly become an all day or multi-pitch route shoe.
Comfort is sacrificed for superb performance and the Anasazi combines incredibly sticky rubber with a thick sole and pronounced end, creating a brilliant shoe for edging. The pointier than normal shape of the toe is perfect for making the most of tiny pockets when used outside and smearing where there is minimal natural friction.
The rubber is not particularly hard wearing and my pair have completely worn out after now around 11 months of frequent wall and outdoor use. However I have been very impressed with my pair up till now and I will be replacing them for another pair of the same shoe.
Rock shoes would not be the same if they didn't come in a variety of garish colours - so if you're not bothered by salmon pink and a fit so good it hurts I would highly recommend these shoes.
Comment on this review...
Pros: Very sticky rubber. Snug fit for narrow feet. Excellent techical properties.
Cons: Not massively hard-wearing. Too pointy for some feet.
Reviewed by Alastair (Somewhere) on 2006-03-14:
General comments: The Five Ten Anasazi lace-up is widely regarded as being one of the best rock shoes in the world. I was converted to it a couple of years ago and have not even considered using another shoe for hard rock routes since. The fit round the toes is superb, giving great sensitivity without being too aggressive which is perfect for routes that arenít steeply overhanging. The heel on these has always been a problem and seems to have a bit of excess space meaning that hard heel-hooking wonít feel as secure. The stealth rubber used on the Anasazi lace-up is incredibly sticky, living up to itís reputation and feels better than any other rubber out there. The boots are superb at edging but also, once theyíve worn down a bit technical smearing making them first choice for slab lovers. The rubber will wear down quicker than the harder rubber on other boots but thatís a sacrifice you have to make for the improved performance. One more thing that impresed me was that they are not incredibly painful to wear for long periods of time as is often the case with the more aggressive high-performance shoes.Comment on this review...
Pros: The fit round the toes is superb, the edging and smearing ability is second to none and they are aren't painful to wear.
Cons: The heel will be a problem for hardcore boulders.
Reviewed by Dave Stocks (Todmorden, West Yorkshire) on 2006-04-09:
General comments: The top end techicnal shoe from Five Ten. The Anasazi Lace Up is worn by many world over. They are good on all different styles of climbing and i found that they go through stages starting off at new they are very good on little edges and as they get older they become the ultimate smearing shoe. The fit of the Anasazi Lace up is quite narrow and they are realy for people with narrow feet and the Anasazi Velcro for wider footed person. The Material which these shoes uppers are made from is non stretch. The soles are made from Stealth C4 which is a great rubber not to soft that it wears away quicky but not so hard that it doesn't stick to the rock. The way to get them sticky even more is to slighty warm the rubber and they become tacky. The fit of these shoes is techincal so hurts become the heel box lets the shoes down realy as it is a funny shape and not may peoples heels fit them proplery. But then again the shoes have to be tried on to make sure that they fit properly. I have done many hard routes in these shoes and rate them alot i have both the Velcro and Lace up and As long as they fit there brillant the golden roule is if they don't fit don't buy them. Comment on this review...
Pros: Stealth C4 rubber, Non stretch uppers,
Cons: Some times the shoes aren't put together very well, badly designed heel box, the linings become very smelly
Reviewed by Merlin (Cornwall) on 2007-04-08:
General comments: I can practically walk up walls in these!!!
I suffered for a short time having poor climbing shoes, then I went out and bought a apir of Anasazis and they instantly improved by foot work. The stealth C4 sole gave me so much more confidence as it sticks like bubble gum.
Over the past 18months this shoe has undoubtedly been a major factor in being able to push my grade.
They have a really great edge which allows the most miniscule of bumps to be utilised for a foot placment. The sole also provides great smearing ability so when hand holds are good and foot holds are non-existant you can just walk up the wall with your feet.
The rounded heel means heel hooking is so much easier too.Comment on this review...
Pros: They're like glue.
Cons: Be under no illusion unless your a strange goblin with weird feet these things will hurt! They do seem to get better with age though. Im a size 9.5 and I wear the size 11 version. The Heel just seems to be so agressive that it pushes your foot foward.
Steath C4 wears out quickly on indoors walls and gritstone.
Reviewed by Peter Sterling (Cumbria) on 2007-08-01:
General comments: Great shoes, a favorite of "Peakies" (those who climb on grit stone in the Peak District). But also a great shoe for precise foot work on small holds (the kind that you need to feel through the sole of the shoe a bit to know you are really "on" it) and amazing for smearing Ė the awesome rubber (Stealth), shape (driving the power from your foot in just the right direction), and construction (great support from the upper materials) all combine to deliver exceptional climbing performance.
Over the past 18 months I have used mine leading routes graded from easy up to E3 and have but one complaint, the heel shape (see bad points below). And I do climb quite a lot too (check out http://www.sterling-adventures.co.uk/blog/) - so this, for me, represents good value for money. I never count on a pair of shoes lasting much more than about a year or so.
Although they are now quite worn out I would heartily recommend them to others. However, the new model (in green) is even better - slightly stickier rubber (not that you really need this, the "stealth" rubber on the pink ones is ace), and a much better heel shape!
Great rock climbing shoes - full stop!Comment on this review...
Pros: Excellent performance.
Cons: Strange heel shape (get the new model, in green).
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