Scarpa Freney XT
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Crafted from lightweight and durable K-TECH, the Freney XT is a 21st century boot built for tackling classic alpine routes. Built on a rigid sole design yet weighing just 1850g, the XT was originally designed for guides and pro climbers who need to wear their boots day in, day out on the most varied terrain, from walk-ins to snow plods to technical rock pitches.
Official Scarpa Freney XT specification from Scarpa
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Scarpa Freney XT Reviews
Reviewed by Jason Moffat (Edinburgh) on 2006-01-13:
General comments: I bought these boots for Scottish Mixed and Ice climbing. I'm very happy with them. They're lightweight and the most comfortable of the B3 boots I tried on.
they do not have as much warmth as Scarpa Cumbres but with the correct sock selection i find I can tweak the warmth no problem.
The sole has a slight curvature which makes walk ins a little more forgiving that some B3 boots.
I find that they let my feet breathe quite well and at the end of a day out I find my feet are still dry.
Breathable. Good for walk ins.
Cons: Perhaps not as much warmth and insulation as heavier boots.
Reviewed by Rich L (Aberdeen) on 2006-04-13:
General comments: As mentioned in a previous review I bought the new version of the Scarpa Freney XT this is named the Scarpa Freney XT GTX GSB. These newer boots have the addition of a gore-tex liner over previous versions and also the new Scarpa / Grivel GSB crampon attachment system. The GSB system amounts to a small hole in the front cleat of the boot that normally accepts the front binding of a crampon. This hole accepts the spike fitted to a number of Grivel crampons with the GSB system i.e. Grivel G14 GSB (See my review of these under the crampon section) The boots originally come with a plastic plug for this hole but I found that it is best to just leave it out, as any mud / snow / ice that gets into this hole can be easily hooked out with either ice axe or crampon. The GSB system gives a very secure fitting for any compatible crampon and has no real drawbacks that I can see. The boots are extremely comfortable for long walk ins and climbing. Despite the Gore tex lining they remain quite breathable and warm and I have not been uncomfortable yet. The only slight criticism would be that they are not that stiff compared to previous B3 boots I have had. This however gives them great feel for mixed climbing.
Pros: lightweight, comfort, superb new GSB system
Cons: slightly bendy compared to stiffer boots in the category
Reviewed by Neil Paterson (Edinburgh) on 2008-02-24:
General comments: I bought these last year for winter in Scotland and then the Alps in summer. The main reason I went for them was because they are light weight (for B3 boots) and because the build quality of every pair of Scarpa's I've owned has been excellent. These boots are no different - nearly 2 winters and a couple of weeks in the Alps, including the ascent of Mont Blanc, they look virtually unworn! The boots have remained completely waterproof and are pretty breathable too. Team them up with a pair of Smartwool mountaineering socks and at the end of the day your feet are just about bone dry. Crampon fitment with Grivel G12's has been very secure, with no issues to report at all. Some people find Scarpa's on the narrow side but I can't say I've had any problems with fit, with no rubbing or blisters. I'd say insulation is no more than adequate, but as I prefer to only wear one pair of socks this might be expected. I've certainly never had really cold feet in them. I thought they were good value for money too, given the price of some competitors.
Pros: Build quality, light weight, good fit (for me anyway), waterproofing and breathability. Good value for money.
Cons: Insulation no more than adequate, but not a massive problem.
Reviewed by Nigel Brown (Ilkley, West Yorkshire) on 2008-11-24:
General comments: I have owned these boots for a year using them in Scotland, The Lakes and The Alps. They are the most comfortable ridged B3 boot I have owned, they are a pleasure to walk in !. The toe of the boot has pleanty of rubber at the front and this makes rock climbing easy it's even possible to smear in them. The only weakness has been removing the plastic plug to fit the GSB crampon. The plug soon breaks down and can be hard to remove . I spent a couple of minutes with a knife in the freezing cold trying to coax them out. I believe some people just leave the plugs out but I do not feel happy doing this.The Grivel crampons fit like a glove. Overall they fantastic boot and are wearing very well.
Pros: Very comfortable boot a pleasure to walk in.
Cons: Only smallpoint, but the plastic GSB plugs are fiddly.
Reviewed by Robert Finch (Aviemore Scotland) on 2010-04-12:
General comments: I purchased a pair of the Freney XTs in Jan 10 and used them nearly every week in the deep snows that the West of Scotland has enjoyed trhis winter. Comfortable, pretty warm, stable and a good all round B3 boot but unfortunately the right boot and to a lesser extent the left leaked. During the winter I also met other people with the same problem. They are about to be returned to the the Scarpa dealers in the UK for assessment (postage refunded wow!) ie the Mountain Boot Company, who seem very open to replacing or repairing them. It will be interesting to see if the problem can be resolved.
Reviewed by Bob Horrocks (West Yorks) on 2011-04-10:
General comments: Fanastic boots to wear.. I even used mine to walk the dog this winter.. very comfortable.. sole started to come loose after 3 months but Scarpa replaced with a new boot..via Cotswold.. no problems since
Pros: Light weight in th best sense
Cons: Never sure how to clean and treat them..