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   Black Diamond ATC-XP

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With the ATC XP, Black Diamond have recognised that climbers need devices capable of providing different levels of friction depending on the situation (e.g. belay or abseil). Standard mode on the ATC XP will be suitable for most uses but if, for example, you have to belay a heavier partner, high mode will come in handy.

Black Diamond ATC-XP

   Black Diamond ATC-XP Reviews

  Reviewed by Andrew Davies (Lancashire) on 2006-01-08:
General comments: When i had just started climbing and was borrowing mates kit, this is the one belay device that particually took my liking. As i'm not a person with the largest build, where as many of the people that I climb with are, I required a more grabby device. The excellent thing about this is that one way it is high friction (when climbing), however the other way it is low friction, which when carrying out rapid abseils both allows free flow and less heat generation.

Pros: The coolest device around.

  Reviewed by Hebe Carus (Edinburgh) on 2006-02-12:
General comments: Used this summer and winter, indoors and outdoors, with single and half ropes.

Pros: Safe for single and skinny half ropes. Also safe for hefty people

Cons: Yet to think of any.

  Reviewed by Josh Powell (Worcestershire) on 2007-02-12:
General comments: ^^^its not as good as others think it is^^^

Cons: when belaying on 'high' friction mode i found myself often having to feed rope into the device to lower my partner, especially if they are light. also when abseiling i carry a lot of gear and it got dangerously hot. not a device for novices


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